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A car audio forum community dedicated to the beginner or expert, since 2000 Post and discuss car audio competition, shows and various car audio events here. Find everything you want to know about car audio, get installation help, reviews, tips and great deals on speakers, subs, amplifiers and more.

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That 296 is an instantanious peak, the 250 amp fuse will handle the short bursts without blowing, the fuse/breaker needs to heat up before it fails, the rate it heats up is in accordance to how many amps are flowing through it

Found this guide on another forum, and given the slew of recent threads on troubleshooting noise, thought i would post it here One word of warning is that some hu's and/or processors nowadays have a zero bit mute, which essentially cuts off the output during low signal passages to reduce. Have some car audio equipment laying around you need to sell Post all car audio related for sale listings here.

So for months now i have been getting tons of messages from various people asking me for help about setting up their processors and where to start with tuning I figured it was finally time to just make a video showing one of many methods to tune I find this method the easiest for beginners. Running speakers active in a nutshell, is running each driver on its own channel from an amplifier, receiving a specific bandwidth

Tweeters receiving the high frequencies, woofers receiving the mid frequencies and subwoofers receiving the low frequencies

The difference between an active and. Your car is pulling power to keep things running, your amps are drawing as much power as it can, and the capacitor is pulling power to charge itself just to be emptied on the next bass hit.